Blue-Tongue & Shingleback Care Guide

Enclosure

Adults need at least a 4×2×2 ft enclosure — floor space matters more than height.
Secure lid or sliding doors. They're stronger than they look.
Give them a hide on each end plus clutter to explore. A bored blue-tongue is a grumpy one.

Heat & Light

Basking spot: 95–100°F. Cool side around 75°F. Night drop to the low 70s is fine.
UVB is strongly recommended — a T5 5.0/6% tube over the basking zone.
Use a thermostat on every heat source. No exceptions.

Diet

Think 40% protein / 50% veggies / 10% fruit.
Staples: high-quality grain-free dog food, collard/mustard greens, squash, snails.
Adults eat 2–3x per week. Babies eat daily.
Skip: avocado, onion, citrus, and anything seasoned.

Humidity & Substrate

Northerns (the most common US species) like it dry: 40–60% humidity.
Use a dry, burrowable substrate — aspen shavings or cypress mulch, 3–4 inches deep. They love to dig.
Always provide a clean water dish big enough to soak in.

Handling

Blue-tongues tame down fast with regular, gentle handling. Support the body — don't grab the tail.
Short sessions at first, especially with babies. Let them come to you.
Wash hands before and after. Standard reptile hygiene.

Health Checks

Clear eyes, clean vent, firm body, regular appetite — that's a healthy animal.
Weigh juveniles monthly. Steady gains mean you're doing it right.
Find a reptile vet before you need one. Future you says thanks.

Shinglebacks

Arid species — keep it dry: 30–40% humidity. They handle drought far better than damp.
Deep, dry, burrowable substrate (aspen or similar, 4+ inches). They love to dig in.
They brumate in winter: gradually cool to the 50s °F, stop feeding beforehand so the gut is empty, and let them sleep.
Same basking setup as blue-tongues — hot spot around 95°F with UVB — but on the dry side always.

New to blue-tongues or shinglebacks? Every animal we sell goes home with a care sheet and lifetime support — if something seems off, email us a photo and we'll help you troubleshoot. We'd rather answer ten beginner questions than see one animal struggle.

Winter dormancy

Brumation, Step by Step

In the wild, Australian blue-tongues and shinglebacks slow down for winter. In captivity, a proper brumation keeps them healthy and sets up a strong breeding season. Here is exactly how to do it.

1 · Health First

Only brumate healthy adults — no juveniles, no sick or underweight animals.
Weigh and record body condition before you start.
Have a reptile vet lined up in case something looks off mid-winter.

2 · Slow Down Feeding

Reduce meals gradually over 2–3 weeks, then stop feeding entirely 1–2 weeks before cooling begins.
The gut must be completely empty — undigested food can rot during dormancy.
A lukewarm soak helps them defecate before they go down.

3 · Stay Hydrated

Keep fresh water available at all times, even during brumation.
Offer occasional lukewarm soaks through winter — a hydrated skink brumates far more safely.

4 · Gradual Cooling

Lower heat and shorten daylight slowly over 2–4 weeks. Never drop everything at once.
Targets: shinglebacks 54°F (12°C), blue-tongues 61°F (16°C) — shinglebacks run cooler.
Use a thermostat on every heat source and avoid sudden swings.

5 · Monitor Closely

Weigh monthly — steady weight is normal.
Rapid weight loss, discharge, or constant restlessness means wake them up and investigate.
Keep the enclosure dark, quiet, and hands-off all winter.

6 · Spring Wake-Up

Reverse the process: warm up gradually over 1–2 weeks and restore normal daylight.
Offer water and a soak first, then small meals — appetite returns within days.
Skip brumation entirely for juveniles, new arrivals still settling in, or any animal not in top condition.

Watch the walkthrough: we turned this guide into a 60-second video — see the brumation prep reel on Instagram @morphselect.

Blue-Tongue & Shingleback Care